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User / PentlandPirate: Innes House Photography
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We're still in April: chilly nights, hail today. But springtime sunshine makes it beautiful! This area, Ardnamurchan might be out on a limb, but it is a hidden gem

N 6 B 465 C 6 E Apr 14, 2024 F Apr 26, 2024
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I've got six grandchildren so far. Three boys and three girls. No.7 should be with us before Christmas. I know I am so lucky and they all bring so much pleasure, especially the aspect that when they start whingeing or make a mess, you can pass them back to their parents. Fun too, to look at photos of their grandparents when they were the same age and see who takes after who.

N 9 B 490 C 3 E Apr 25, 2024 F Apr 25, 2024
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Blimey, I had no idea sheep could be so dangerous if you see them eating grass

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I thought he looked good up there, welcoming allcomers to the village of Acharacle, deep in Ardnamurchan wild country. But tonight I see he's gone, and I've no idea where. But Scotland's big absentee landlords are a NIMBYish lot who want their playgrounds without any thought for community sentiment. Gordon, in a very short time, proved to be popular with children and families in our area and the thought that he has been kidnapped is distressing.

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All winter we waited to hear if the Jacobite "Harry Potter Express" would operate from Fort William to Mallaig. "Greatest train journey in the world" they call it. But it isn't. Certainly, not at the moment.

The company that operates the Jacobite and benefits hugely from J.K. Rowlings novels, West Coast Railways is in dispute with the safety authority, the ORR (Office of Rail and Roads). The ORR have found fault with WCR on numerous occasions, most seriously when they were fined £200,000 with £ 64,000 costs when the driver turned off a safety system and nearly caused a head on collision with a high speed passenger train. The driver was even sentenced to four months in prison, with sentence suspended for 18 months, it was that serious an offence.

All train carriage doors used on main lines must have a central door locking (CDL) system. West Coast Railways have been given an exemption from this each year for the last 30 years. But in light of other safety breaches the ORR refused to offer one more. All other heritage railways using old rolling stock have been compliant with the ORR, except West Coast Railways, who say they cannot afford the £ 7 million bill to update their carriages with central door locking. This seems hard to believe given that this service is amongst the most profitable anywhere, and what is to stop WCR getting newer carriages with CDL and painting them up in vintage colours? It seems to have become a battle of wills, and the victims are tourists, train enthusiasts and the local communities. I went to see the situation for myself yesterday.

Hundreds of people had arrived before me, a full hour before the train was due on the Glenfinnan viaduct. The National Trust car park was already conned off, full. The Glenfinnan Community car park was almost full, with one car being allowed in at a time. There was a trail of people walking up the riverside path towards the viaduct. Where they went left up the hillside to the most popular viewing point I went right, across the bridge and up the opposite side of the valley to give me a longer view up Loch Shiel towards my home. Perched on a dry rock, there, I scanned the opposite hillside and spotted an estimated 500 train spotters, stood expectantly for the Harry Potter experience.

Normally, you can hear the clatter on the rails from miles away, and the train slows to issue a shrill whistle to announce its arrival to the waiting crowds. I almost didn't notice its arrival in the drizzle as a dark, pig-like snout pushed past the trackside vegetation into my field of view. Bugger! No steam train. No Harry Potter train. Just a dirty great Class 37 diesel, which belched black smoke every time it opened the throttle. As it trundled past I counted 7 carriages, it's normal number, I was pleased to see. But peering through the windows, rather than seeing hundreds of happy faces and hands smiling and waving out at us, almost all were completely empty.

What's going on? I had heard rumours, almost unbelievable rumours. The Black 5 steam engine had broken down on the first day, blocking the track for the usual Scotrail train to and from Mallaig. But WCR normally position three identical Black 5 steam engines in Fort William to cater for the second service of the day, and one to cover breakdowns. The diesel was always there to take over if there was a risk of embers from the steam train setting fire to the hillsides in dry weather. Why no steam engine yesterday? And why only one or two carriages of passengers, or were they not passengers at all, but crew being trained as another rumour made out?

As the diesel disappeared under a black cloud on the far side of the valley, the hillside viewers broke up and walked down hill to their cars again, disappointment written all over their faces in the silent procession back to their cars. They paid a minimum £ 5 to park too, up from £ 3 last year. Not that I begrudge a highland community trying to make money from their own endeavours.

WCR say the area will lose £ 55 million because of the ORR decision to issue them an exemption to safety requirements. The ORR say they have had 30 years to get their carriages updated, or get ones that comply. But still WCR would rather operate the trains empty so that no other operator can use their slots on the single main line

The people I feel sorry for are the tourists and train enthusiasts. I've heard of visitors from places like Australia and Canada planning trips to Scotland based around going on the Jacobite. And thousands of Harry Potter fans and Instagrammers from all over the world who are left disappointed and upset that there is no Harry Potter steam train. But most of all I feel sorry for the small fishing village of Mallaig at the end of the line who were used to a thousand or so train passengers coming off the Jacobite for an hour or two as it turned round to go back to Fort William. They streamed into the town to buy Fish and Chips, and enjoy fresh seafood in the restaurants, take short boat trips and cruises to see seals and other wildlife, even visit the Haggard Alley Harry Potter shop, and take in harbour views of the Small Isles out towards Skye. I feel sorry for them losing all that business while WCR use the community's loss as a weapon to bully the ORR into giving them one more exemption. In Mallaig, WCR really have reached the end of the line.

I went on the Jacobite steam train, once, First Class. In my opinion, it wasn't worth it. Trackside vegetation blocks your views most of the way, even if the steamed up, soot streaked windows don't. The road journey, which mostly takes the same route is more enjoyable, but if you must go over the Glenfinnan viaduct, go on the Scotrail train at a fraction of the Jacobite price. It's exactly the same route

Many would say, for what West Coast Railways have done, they don't deserve to operate this service. A lot of anger is forming towards them. Let a new, more caring and responsible operator come in and create a better experience for tourists, train enthusiasts and local communities alike.


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